“Chefs from some of the chillier regions of North America are making an effort to dive deeper into their habitat. From New England up through the Maritime Provinces of Canada and west to Montreal and Toronto, they are doing culinary work that poses questions without simple answers: What exactly is Northern cooking? And how do you make that identity clear and compelling to diners?”

The article is fascinating, the recipes are exciting. But I can’t get past the labeling “Northern” to whom and in contrast to what.
“Northern” North America ? “Northern” American as contrasted to “Southern”.

It is primarily an article about culinary innovation in Canada, but clearly the chefs and their efforts are not limited to “Northern Canada”.

I think I know what they mean, but I also think you know what I am getting at.

But please do not let this linguistic splitting of hairs deter you from the substance – and there is a lot of it – of the piece.